The village that has sprung up around Petra is Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses), formerly known as Elji but now named after the valley it follows. It’s a patchy mass of hotels, restaurants and shops stretching about 5km down from ‘Ain Musa to the main entrance of Petra and a real tourist trap . The beauty is in the canyons so unless you are planning a dig a few days stay is all that is needed.

A vast and wonder-laced state with treasures more sublime than those of fable, the Land of the Kings paints a bold image. Compiling a must-see list in Rajasthan can cripple the fussy traveller: Meherangarh looming over bright blue Jodhpur, the giant gold sandcastle at Jaisalmer, the palaces and pageantry of Udaipur, Pushkar’s reverent yet carnival charm, the storybook whimsy of Bundi and the havelis (traditional, ornately decorated residences) sprinkled through Shekhawati – see them all, and you’ll see a month fly by faster than the express bound for Pakistan. Like a microcosm of Mother India, there’s also abundant wildlife and warm people, glitz and camels, soulful music, glittering saris, tottering turbans and a surprisingly rich cuisine.

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Many locals are aware of tourists flocking to Petra with big wallets and little time and this is one of the few places in Jordan where you’ll get consistently overcharged.

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